Why am I bad at coding?

Car broken-coded, now nothing works

Good morning / evening dear MT community,

As interested in technology as I am, after successfully reading and deleting the fault memory of my BMW 318i with I ** A, I dared to take the next step -> vehicle coding with NCS Expert

In doing so, however, I shot myself the electrics of my car very badly, although of course I strictly followed the instructions:

I read out the coding data from all my SG and edited a few of them in the editor and saved it as a ".MAN" file of the same name in C: / NCSEXPER / WORK. Today I want to re-import the first edited file, namely that of the SHD, i.e. the SG selected and coded, but I guess I did something wrong, which of course I would like to find out, among other things. After the completed (!) Coding process I pulled the ignition key (thought it was like a restart, looking back probably stupid, maybe the mistake?) And put it again, but nothing worked. The window lifters, radio / navigation system, sunroof, combination unit, etc ... nothing works anymore. The speedometer lights up wildly and the BC reports only rarely.

Then I disconnected the battery for almost 1.5 hours and then tried again. So the ignition key was inserted and turned to the first position and everything seemed to work. The speedometer looked normal, the radio switched on and I was able to lower the driver's window a little. But then it started again and the electrics jumped out. I no longer have access to the SG via NCS and I ** A probably also not (probably means that * in front of the SG) and now I'm a bit at a loss.

My beautiful new 3 Series is now on the road with the driver's window taped off and makes no move. How can I proceed now? Maybe ideas what I did wrong (should I have changed something on the vehicle order)? Battery is now dead overnight so what should I try next then?

I really need your help, I'm a bit at a loss and would like to have my car again :(


Similar issues
19 answers

Code each SG with NCS with an empty .MAN file. To do this, you have to empty the MAN file in the WORK directory or copy an empty one before each step. So before selecting, reading out, writing, etc.

I wish you success!

Oh yes, make sure there is enough juice on the battery.

Removing the key usually has nothing to do with it. When NCS says coding complete, you can safely remove the key. Not enough juice in the battery is my hot tip. Anything below 12 V is critical.

Unfortunately, the battery runs out very quickly while coding. I still know it myself: I had new equipment and of course played a lot at first. More than once I discharged the battery so much that it wouldn't start again afterwards. If the battery of your "new" one is already charged, this can of course happen more quickly.

Measure the tension, you can also do that via the secret menu of the speedometer.


Otherwise, as the heating oil heater already said: Code empty .MAN on all control units, this will reset them to the factory settings.

I wish you success.

I also felt like that .. for an hour programming around while wearing the ignition (and xenons :-)) .. then wondering that it didn't start anymore ... also thought that I broke everything (see my post from back then "Programming destroyed: - (“) would have done ... but Starthilfe has“ repaired ”everything again :-)

Thank you for the great answers and I am now confident that the battery has only become weak. I've probably already played for two hours in the car via OBD without a charger, because I just found it too stupid (on the public road) and totally underestimated it ^^

Your diagnosis also goes well with the error pattern, I guess. At first the voltage was in such a low range that the electronics went crazy (lamps go on randomly, nothing works anymore, etc.) and then it sank so low that everything stays off now.

And I guess in the 2 hours in which I disconnected the battery, it was able to recover enough that it ran for the aforementioned 5 - 10 seconds again. So I'm going to measure the voltage right away and at least try to open the window and then charge the battery :)


Secret menu with empty battery is rather bad; P.

But the initial euphoria with the new equipment works well for me ^^

So thank you so far, I'll check everything right now and keep you up to date.


PS: I've already seen myself at the BMW dealer and have to have new control units installed or have to repel the car ... But nothing is fixed yet ^^

Thank you all for the helpful answers, of course it was the battery ^^

It had been disconnected overnight, which allowed it to recover to 13.5 V. But as soon as I reconnected it, the voltage dropped to 12.5 V and I could watch 0.1 V fizzle out every 3 seconds. So I at least managed to close the driver's window and check that everything was running normally like radio, speedometer, etc. Less than a minute later the battery was dead again with a meager 11, x V ... Now it is charging on the charger with at least one 3.6 Ah, so it feels like I can come back in 20 days and install it again ^^


@ Fred-Ratz wrote on June 24, 2018 at 2:21:04 p.m .:

Can't you just bridge? Then you know right away

I could have done it too, but why? If I don't want to attract too much attention outside on the public street, I found it uncomfortable to tape up my window there. And there is absolutely nothing to rush before the description ^^ "

How do you do it now? Do you only code with the charger connected? Is mine even enough? So do I really have to drive the car into the courtyard for 10 seconds the next time I code and then roll out the cable drum over 20m ^^ "?



Should you need a new battery ... take one with more AH ... we have one too.

They don't like deep discharges at all.

Charge only with a regulated charger (at 3.6A it will probably be one)

When I tinker something ... I turn off the interior light, radio and ventilation.

Unfortunately, due to all the electrical nonsense, the battery is drained quickly.

I wanted to measure the "quiescent current" ... and was shocked that shortly after the car was locked, there was still a flow of 800mA ... but it is "normal"


@E_Sechsundvierzig wrote on June 24, 2018 at 2:43:20 pm:

How do you do it now? Do you only code with the charger connected?

I've always done it without a charger.

It quickly became clear to me that you couldn't safely play around forever with the ignition on. So I switched to turning off the ignition while browsing the .TRC or .MAN. But even with that I managed to flatten the battery again and again, so it's not a panacea either.

At some point you will know which codings make sense at all (I recently posted a list), which control units and which strings are needed for which result. Coding is done in a few minutes.

If the battery is in top condition, you can code them all! Switch off consumers and get started.

I have never had problems with.

A coding session usually only lasts a maximum of 30 minutes for me.

That's right, I also switched off all consumers. But with two hours that wouldn't have done anything. ;)

Smart ass ...: p

All unnecessary, of course, such as light, interior lighting, ventilation, radio, telephone ...

Oh, and what else I wanted to say:


@E_Sechsundvierzig wrote on June 24, 2018 at 2:43:20 pm:

Don't want to attract too much attention out on the public street

"Don't fuck anything, then don't fuck anything ..."

Anyway, I've learned my lesson:

Code quickly, do not turn on the ignition unnecessarily and take care of your consumers: D

I think the battery will survive, especially since it is already relatively strong for my model (77 Ah and 780 A).

Well, now it's time to wait, when can I start coding again? With a battery voltage of 14. x V? And do I actually have to relearn my key with regard to the ZV: /?


What does that mean xD?

That is a Bavarian wisdom. literally translated: "Don't give a shit, then you won't be missing anything". Means something like "Don't care what other people think, you'll be fine"

Oh yes, you will never have over 14 volts with the engine switched off. If the voltage is 12.5, that's okay.